Chilean Patagonia in winter

Chilean Patagonia was on my bucket list for such a long time, but I was unsure if I should go in the winter. I finally got the opportunity to take a long awaited trip to South America, but it was in winter. I still wanted to go to Chilean Patagonia, regardless of the weather.  So I risked going in the winter was totally worth the effort.

If you’re thinking about visiting Chilean Patagonia in winter, but not sure if it will be worth it, then keep reading for my pros and cons of visiting during the coldest months of the year.

The flights are cheaper

It’s not a popular route in the winter. Due to my indecisiveness I booked my flights two days before and got a great deal from San Pedro via Santiago to Punta Arenas. It was a lot of distance to cover by air for a small price. Flights get booked out in advance during the summer season.

Accommodation is cheaper

After staying in hotels for 5 weeks during my South America trip I was so happy to snag a winter deal on a beautiful little studio apartment in Puerto Natales. It was cosy and warm with a well equipped kitchen and cosy bed. This would have been triple the price in summer.

Tip: You need to take a packed lunch on most day trips in Patagonia as many places in the national park are shut in the winter. Having a kitchen is ideal

You’ll have Torres del Paine to yourself

This iconic national park is beautiful, so it’s very popular with the tourist in peak season. One minibus a day caters to the tourists during the winter season. In the summer the hiking trails get really busy. I just loved having this landscape to myself.

You can experience hiking with crampons

Now this might put some people off, but for the adventure seekers out there.The winter snow can turn a relatively easy hike into something far more challenging and rewarding. It wasn’t my first time hiking in snow, but it was my first time using crampons. It was scary and exciting at the same time. Every tour will provide you with crampons, so there is no need to bring your own. If trekking in snow won’t put you off, then don’t think twice, book that flight.

Day tours will be far less crowded

I took a day trip to the Balmaceda and Serrano glacier. The reviews on Trip Advisor said it was very busy and not worth it, but in during the winter the boat was quiet and there was plenty of space to relax. I felt the day was worthwhile and felt happy I took this trip in the winter. Having whiskey served on glacier ice while feeling all toasty and warm and enjoying the views was fantastic. Also the trip takes you to a beautiful and rugged island and served up the most amazing BBQ lamb lunch. It was probably the best day trip lunch i’ve ever eaten.

Tip: If you’re not a neat whiskey lover, then buy a hot chocolate from the boat cafe and mix them. Whiskey and hot chocolate is a perfect winter drink.

Now for some of the cons

You’ll experience weather that you never thought possible.

It gets windy in Patagonia. Very windy. It’s the kind of wind that might require you to lay on the ground, so you don’t get swept off your feet. Now I found this exciting, but it can be pretty scary at times. The national park can be closed due to high wind at short notice. It didn’t happen while I was there, but damn, it was windy.

It’s really hard to cross the boarder to Argentinian Patagonia

During the winter the buses run very infrequently from Chile to Argentina. I didn’t get to cross the boarder for this reason. I met some travelers that said the first bus across the boarder was around August 4th. So it is possible to do this trip in winter, but it would be best to contact the local tour companies in advance.

Tip: Contacting a local tour company to find bus information is easier than trying to communicate with a bus company directly. The tour companies have all this information to hand and want to sell you a ticket, so if a bus is available, they will find it for you.

It’s hard to get out to Glacier Grey

To do this you must find a tour company to drop you one way to the national park and collect you again a day or two later.  You’ll need to stay overnight at the 5 star hotel Lago De Grey and HOPE that the boat trip to the glacier will run on the day that you are there. The hotel will not confirm if the boat will run until the morning of the trip, so it’s a risk. I didn’t do this, because my budget didn’t stretch enough for the hotel stay. However, having the wilderness of the national park to myself made up for the awkward winter travel arrangements.

Your flight or bus could be cancelled or delayed due to snow

I didn’t have any such delays. My flight landed on what looked like a sheet of ice and my bus drove through a blizzard to get me back to the airport, but it is possible that weather can hamper your travel plans. As with any travel in South America I always say to leave TWO buffer days until you need to catch your flight home. Boarder crossings are renowned for closing and stranding tourists. To be on the safe side, explore Santiago at the end of your trip.

It’s too cold for the penguins

I didn’t get to see any penguins in the winter, so if that’s what you’re after, then you are better off visiting in the summer.

What to wear

Layers, layers and more layers. I travel with hand luggage only, so I consider every item of clothing I pack carefully. I didn’t have trekking pants because I was only going on day hikes. Yoga pants worn under jeans was ok for me, although probably not ideal for many. The rest of my clothing was more suitable.

A feather down jacket that packs small is a must, as is a windproof and waterproof jacket. I had a merino wool t-shirt and a merino wool zip up top, I was warm in the cold mornings and didn’t get sweaty or smelly while trekking.

My most amazing travel item was my waterproof Palladium boots. My feet were dry and warm after trekking in crampons along a snowy ridge. The boots were also perfect for the hot weather as they are breathable. I will never buy another travel boot again.

Final Thoughts

Although I didn’t get to see and do everything that the summer months allow, I still want to head back to Patagonia in the winter. It’s a place that is worth seeing in both winter and summer. With such dramatic scenery you won’t be disappointed when visiting in any season.

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